Have you ever had a client come in for a routine lash fill looking like she had individually plucked off all her lashes? This may be typical if your client waits much longer than the recommended time for a fill, which is about every 2-3 weeks, but if your clients are coming in with more than 50% of their lashes missing there is a problem! A tragedy, really.
Not only will your client not be super happy, but you will be doubling your work (if they decide to come back to you)! Why does this happen? We want our clients to be happy and get the most out of their lashes. But how can we help them?
Taking Care of the Adhesive
lash adhesive has a shelf life of 4 weeks once opened or 12 months if the seal has not been opened.
Using the adhesive past this time period is not recommended for several reasons. Borboleta has limited the amount of preservatives and unnecessary chemicals in the adhesive as much as possible. The integrity of the adhesive is naturally maintained up to 4 weeks. After this time frame the adhesive begins to solidify inside the bottle due to the exposure to the air (opening and closing the bottle). This makes the glue more clumpy and produces more water as a byproduct in the adhesive. It becomes an unfavorable consistency and will not work as well to adhere to the natural lash.
If you are using fresh adhesive and proper technique, it is best to talk with your clients about their makeup routine to identify the problem.
Makeups to Avoid
Certain makeups can breakdown the adhesive quicker than others. To understand why, you must know that cyanoacrylate is a polar molecule. Molecules can either be polar or nonpolar. In general, polar molecules are dissolved or broken down by other molecules that are polar. The same is true with nonpolar molecules – nonpolar molecules are dissolved or broken down by other molecules that are nonpolar.
Many makeups contain both polar and nonpolar molecules. Since cyanoacrylate is polar, products that contain more polar molecules should be avoided around your eyes.
Foundations and powders don’t have direct contact with your lashes, so they are generally safe to use no matter what the chemical composition. I will mostly be focusing on eyeliner, eyeshadows, and makeup removers.
Many oil-based makeups, including makeup removers contain molecules that have a polar head (or a polar part to the molecule). This polar part will “attack” the cyanoacrylate and weaken the bonds between the lash extension and the natural lash. Makeup removers and oil-based makeups should be avoided at all costs. Even makeup removers that state they are oil-free often times contain polar molecules.
Makeup wipes are also not the best option for the same reason.
Eye makeup should be cleaned using the Borby Lash Bath (1 cup distilled water to 1 Tbsp baby shampoo and the tiniest pinch of baking soda) and your hands. If you are wearing eyeliner, or makeup that requires a little more attention to remove, it is best to use a micro swab or lip disposable gloss applicator. You don’t want to use Q-tips as the fibers will get caught in the lashes.
Wax-based eyeliners should be avoided. Most eyeliner pencils contain some kind of wax, if that helps you identify wax-based eyeliners. Eyeliners that contain wax help the eyeliner stick to your eyelids and also your lashes. When wax-based eyeliners are removed it becomes a battle of whether or not they will be taking the lashes with them.
The lash trend lately has been leaning for a more natural and full look, so many girls have chosen to avoid eyeliner all together! But if you are still set on using eyeliner the best eyeliners are liquid or gel based. Erin’s favorite lash-friendly liner is Black Track by Mac, it’s a gel liner you apply with an angled brush.
Most eyeshadows are safe and easy to use with lashes, because they aren’t immediately touching the lash line. However, to be safe cream and paste shadows should be avoided as they are more likely to dissolve the adhesive and make your lashes fall off.
Final Words of Advice
The best way to preserve the adhesive and get the most out of your lashes is to limit the amount of physical strain your lashes experience. Meaning, the less you tamper with your lashes, besides the recommended washing and brushing, the better condition they will be.
Your lashes are supposed to be fun and an expression of you, so don’t stress too much about your makeup usage.